Ho Chi Minh City: I've spent the last day and 1/2 wandering in and out of cafes and parks and being a general bum, but this is about my first day. It begins on the overnight train from Hoi An. At 2 a.m. when I woke up itching - bed bugs. It's amazing to be attacked so hard and so thoroughly by things so very small (I couldn't even see them).
4:30 a.m. Arrival in HCMC, formerly (and still on many shop signs and t-shirts) Saigon. Train announcement introducing the city includes something about 'Anti-American Day'; I think it's on March 19th. (mind, when I talk to Vietnamese people they all say some version of - oh, you're American; I love America; my brother is in California).
5:00 a.m. On the road with all the backpacker's delights, having coffee in a bar still open with a few very drunk pathetic young tourists (It's my blog, I can be slightly mean and condescending if I want to).
7:30 a.m. Showered and out the door to the Reunification Palace, formerly the home of the South Vietnamese President before 1975. My lovely English-speaking guide talked to me about how wonderful is the American-Vietnamese relationship now; mentioned Bush's recent visit; told me to forget various factors of 'American imperialist aggression' as she pointed them out; and spoke a bit about how rude Koreans are (forgive me Donna, I didn't quite know how to correct her) - NB Korea is the number #1 investor in Vietnam.
10:00 a.m. War Remnants Museum. Interesting to note that many of the pictures on display were taken by an American source, LIFE magazine. I was disappointed in the content and quality of the museum as a whole, which I can say now that there's not a museum official standing next to me (this relates to the interview I'll mention soon). But I was also feeling grumpy because the museum - hence my impression of the government - does not acknowledge the North-South dimension of the war. It is strictly portrayed as a war of defense against American attack. Not that I want to defend America's foreign policy at that time...and oh my, where's my friendly, tourist brochure blog headed now... but portraying the people of the South as mere puppets is degrading and I think does nothing for national reconciliation, which I think is still a relevant issue. Obviously I think this because I'm a peacenik; but also because during my short time here (maybe because I'm American?) people have resentfully - and yet quietly - told me that the North has been the equivalent of carpetbaggers after the American Civil War. Then there are moments like when the former English and French teacher (which fab pronounciation in both languages, I might add) told me she can't get a job because her husband was one of the boat people - and then she says, shhh don't tell or she'll go to jail. I asked for clarification - even now? "Even now." Maybe I should hope she's mentally ill. I can do that because she was trying to sell me postcards, right? ANYWAY. Because of the spillover hype from Bush's visit, there was a guy interviewing Americans visiting the museum. Look out for me on Japanese television!
1:00 p.m. Lunch at Pho 24, a hip chain serving various types of pho = noodle soup.
1:45 p.m. HCMC museum where I didn't have to buy a ticket because it was wedding picture day. I watched women take pics in a Western white bridal gown then visited an exhibit of traditional Vietnamese wedding attire (yes, I'm pointing out a contrast).
That's it. Hot part of day fades into coffee and just wandering. I will note that the parks both here and in Hanoi are fabulous early morning and early evening - filled with people doing all sorts of exercise. Tai chi is a favorite. I like this flying hackey-sack type game and the (seemingly) married couples playing badmitton. Are you bored with reading this yet? Post and tell me to shut up! hehe. I changed the settings so anyone can post now - without having an account (I think). Oh, and even HCMC has a Louisiana cuisine restaurant ('Bourbon Street')! I somehow passed up cajun chicken though and went out for spring rolls.